![]() Add another couple of coats and you have a professional gun stock finish.Now that the wood is properly prepared, light-color wood can be stained. Eventually the finish will harden perfectly smooth and every pore in the wood will be filled. Yes I know you feel like you're ruining all the work you did. If you see any pores or evidence of the wood grain showing, sand it off again. Then build up another 6 or more layers of Tru-Oil. Using 220 grit sandpaper, sand off the layers you just put on. In about 15-20 minutes you can add another coat of Armor All and Tru-Oil.Īfter at least 6 coats comes the part I hate but it's mandatory. You can feel the change take place as you're rubbing. The Armor All comes to the surface and lubricates the hardening Tru-Oil as you rub. In a few minutes the catalyst in the Armor All begins to kick in and it will harden the Tru-Oil while rubbing. Dip a couple of fingers in the Tru-Oil and start spreading and rubbing it in. Use enough Armor All to make the area shiny but not wet. Spray a small amount of Armor All on the area you are going to treat. It makes the finish smoother and you'll never leave fingerprints. First, I always wear nitrile surgical gloves. I won't do it the old way anymore, it takes too long to build up enough layers to fill the grain. I've used the "magic elixir" of Armor All and Tru-Oil on several stocks. I will use it again, you just need to know what to expect. I reviewed many finishes, GunKote, Cerakote, they both compared better, Aluma-Hyde II was no slouch though, it was cheaper and did not require baking. The cure time is for real, I'd wait 7 days before reassemble. ![]() Watch their video on the proven 4 step procedure. If you try this be sure to have your spare tips ready, shake well, and you can warm the can in hot water prior. In all honesty it looks better than the pictures I posted,Īnd seems to be pretty durable, after cure. You can make it as shiny as you want with this method. There's a good video on the Tube about it. To bring back the luster a bit I used Johnson's Paste That's why (along with smoothing it out) I lightly sanded it. ![]() I used Brownells semi-gloss but it looked too shiny in my opinion. I again lightly sanded it with "fine" Scotch brite pad I bought new tips and gave it 2 more light coats. I had to lightly sand it down with a scotch bright sanding pad to remove the splatter. They failed to mention it has a tendency to clog. I followed their 4 coat procedure they have on YouTube to a "T". When I do it again I'll change tips between coats whether it needs it or not. I recommend purchasing spare tips (Brownells sells them, They should include spare tips with the rattle can!) The Aluma-Hyde was a bit of a pain to work with. ![]()
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